Autumn might just be one of my favourite times of year to get away. And it might just be the best time of year to explore Northern Europe. Trees ablaze with fall colours, cosy cafes, charming cobbled streets in the late afternoon sun – it sounds good, right? So, as the seasons start to turn I’m sharing my secrets for the perfect city break now.
The dramatic landscapes of Wales never fail to disappoint. My photo journal from a recent weekend adventure in the Elan valley and the north-west Welsh coast showcase some of the contrasts and colours of this wonderful little country.
I hadn’t originally intended to post about this trip, as I found myself in Wales a few weeks back for a trail race – and I figured most of you would aren’t here for quirky race reviews (although let me know if not, and I will try to oblige!).
But I ended up taking a handful of photos I loved and I wanted to share them with you. Maybe they’ll inspire your own Welsh adventure.
We were ultimately heading for the north-west Welsh coast but stopped on the way in the Elan valley. This stunningly beautiful series of reservoirs set amongst the rolling, heather-covered hills of mid-Wales feeds much of the Midlands with water. A lovely friend of mine introduced to this area a few years ago, and it’s stayed with me ever since. We spent an afternoon dodging showers and tramping round the Garreg-du reservoir, reminding ourselves why we love this little country so much.
Our base for the weekend was Hendre Hall camping and glamping in Llwyngwril – more specifically one of their little glamping pods. Seriously, I couldn’t recommend this place enough – the pod was great (the perfect compromise between creature comfort and life in the great outdoors), and we looked out over the railway line and beach beyond. And boy, were we glad we’d gone for the pod over our slightly-ratty old tent – in typical Welsh fashion it rained pretty much all the weekend … in August.
Our weekend was mostly all about completing Race the Train – a epic 14 mile trail race that follows the route of the Tallylyn steam railway, starting in the little seaside town of Tywyn. It was all about mud, mud, more mud and glorious Welsh landscape. With a bit of running thrown in for good measure. Trail running friends, you’ll love this race.
Madness aside (I’m never going to pretend this is a normal way to spend a Saturday afternoon), Tywyn’s a town with old world charm and some stonkingly good places to eat. We ended up the Salt Marsh Cafe twice – once for carb-loading on their homemade pizza and burgers, and later for a quiet drink. It’s a fun, cosy space with lovely staff and a mouth-wateringly good food and drink menu. As a post-race splurge we indulged in three courses of delicious at Proper Gander, where they somehow manage to turn out incredibly refined local dishes from a kitchen the size of a cupboard. Importantly, in a state where I was woofing down cereal bars post-race like no tomorrow, their portions were reassuringly satisfying and we left very full and very happy.
Our last stop on our whistle-stop weekend was just outside Builth Wells. It’s landscape of lush green valleys, peppered with little stone farmhouses and shy sheep. High up, the hills sing with purple heather and damp pools reflect the vibrant vegetation. Yes, it was damp and grey, but no, it didn’t disappoint. It’s always a good day for a walk in Wales.
If you’d like a little more inspiration for a Welsh adventure of your own, try my guide to three unmissable stops on a road trip around Wales – complete with pictures to prove the sun does actually shine in Wales from time to time (just not always when I’m there).
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The secret to enjoying the perfect stay on Lake Annecy is making travel and accommodation plans that’ll help you to explore the parts of this region that excite you most. My guide will point you in the right direction whether you’re planning a city break in central Annecy or an Alpine adventure in a lakeside village.
Lake Annecy and the city of Annecy itself are picture-perfect. With breath-taking clear lake waters, craggy alpine peaks papered with lush green woodland and a jewel-coloured old town, there are a million reasons to want to visit this less well-known region of France. Maybe I’ve even managed to persuade you in Lake Annecy: France’s best-kept secret and 9 unmissable things to do around Lake Annecy, France – where I admit that return visits over the past 25 years have left me with a huge love for this Alpine wonderland.
If you’re thinking of planning a trip here – great news – I think that’s a fantastic idea! However, these wonderfully diverse surroundings and the enormous range of possibilities can make planning your stay more than a little intimidating. It’s not a small city, and the lakeside towns and villages that twinkle in the distance on an evening pose a myriad of options for accommodation and exploration.
But, knowing where to stay and how to get around will make all the difference – as it’ll put you at the heart of the action you’re most keen on throwing yourself into. It’s the perfect way to upgrade your holiday from good to pretty darn perfect.
So, to give you a helping hand I’ve put together a guide to help you navigate planning a trip to Lake Annecy.
I’ll share my recommendations for getting there, getting about and share some secrets to finding the best places to stay for the type of adventure you want to have. Shall we get started?
This is the third in a series of posts about Lake Annecy, you can check out Lake Annecy: France’s best-kept secret and 9 unmissable things to do around Lake Annecy, France for more about this region.
Before you begin
With so much on offer, it’s worth taking the time to decide on your priorities before booking. Think about what you’re planning to spend most of your time doing – are you hoping to hike or cycle to your heart’s content, bask by the lake or indulge at some of the city’s enticing restaurants? Don’t forget to check my guide to 9 unmissable things to do around Lake Annecy, France for a little light inspiration.
You’ll also want to think about what time of year you’ll be visiting, and what type of accommodation suits you best – whether you’ll be looking for home comforts, outdoor space, room for a crowd or somewhere a little out of the ordinary.
Once you know what you want to do, you can shape your trip around this – so you make the absolute most of it.
Getting to Annecy
You’ve got three options travelling to the city of Annecy – road, rail and air. The best fit for your trip will depend on where you’re travelling from and, to some extent, whether you’d like the freedom of having a car to get around.
To Annecy by air
Although Annecy has it’s own airport, it’s largely served by internal flights so for international connections and budget airlines you’re best heading to nearby Geneva or Lyon. Both have great road connections to Annecy, with Geneva a little over 40 minutes away. Hiring a car can be a wise choice – and makes it easy to explore beyond the city and up into the mountains.
If public transport is more your thing, high speed rail services connect Annecy and Lyon Saint-Exupéry TGV (the station is just a few minutes walk from the airport terminal), and Annecy’s modern station is conveniently located on the edge of the old town. Alternatively, Ouibus offers a less frequent, but generally faster bus service from the airport to Annecy. You can check timetables and ticket prices for both trains and buses on SNCF’s website.
Public transport from Geneva airport is possible but is complicated substantially by the border crossing from Switzerland and the closure of a major station in Geneva. I attempted this option last year (2016), but found it fraught with difficulties so I’m not in a rush to recommend it. In a rare twist of things going completely down the pan, we ended up being rescued by our wonderful airbnb host thanks to a catastrophic (I’m exaggerating, but felt it at the time) combination of delayed airport arrivals, multiple stations with the same name, closed stations and a very approximate bus timetable.
I’d seriously recommend saving yourself the worry and take the (infrequent but direct) bus to the centre of Annecy or hire a car from the airport instead.
To Annecy by rail
The small but perfectly formed railway station in Annecy gives you access to the French mainline, high-speed rail network – an easy way to reach most of France’s major cities. A direct train from Paris’ Gare de Lyon takes just shy of 4 hours, which sounds impressively quick to me. Check out the SNCF website (France’s national rail network) for timetables and fares.
To Annecy by road
Annecy is well-connected to the French autoroute network via the A40 and A41, making it easy to reach from most of northern and western Europe. From the UK, it’s about an 8 hour drive from the Channel Tunnel (if you want to turn your journey into more of an adventure, check out my guide to Troyes, a pretty city in the Champagne region, that makes a great mid-way stop).
The best way to get about will depend on how long you’re staying for and how keen you are to get out and explore.
The city and it’s nearest beaches are all easily explored on foot, with wide promenades along the northern end of the lake. If you’re planning a short city break walking’s the perfect way to get around – perhaps with a little cycling and the odd bus journey thrown in.
If you’re feeling enthusiastic, the lakeside villages are easy to reach by bike. Follow the Voie Vert – a fantastic cycle path that circles the lake – to find new places and to branch off for more ambitious routes. There are bucketloads of hire shops around the lake, with options from hourly to all day rentals.
- Cyclable Annecy is situated right on the edge of the old town and a stone’s throw from the Voie Vert. I gave one of their standard bikes a 50 mile thrashing in a day last year, and I’d happily recommend.
- For serious cyclists, try Basecamp in Talloires for high-end Cannondales that will see you through some major mountain climbing. I’ve not tried out their bikes, but breakfast in their cafe is delicious (clearly this is important on any cycle trip). Despite being the new kids on the block in 2017 they appear to have a very professional set-up.
If you’re keen to discover the lakeside towns and villages without a car, you’ll find reliable bus services throughout the day and week operated by LIHSA. As well as being great value routes with regular services, in places they connect with free shuttle bus services to help you get higher up into the mountains. Try taking the LIHSA to Talloires and then the free Navette (summer season only) to reach the stunning viewpoint at Col de la Forclaz.
Note: LIHSA doesn’t have it’s own dedicated website, which can make it a tad tricky to plan journeys in advance if you’re not a confident French speaker. You can try their French site here or contact Annecy’s tourist office for more visitor-friendly help finding the right services.
Lastly, I wouldn’t be honest with you if I didn’t tell you that having a car is one of the best ways to make the most of a trip to this stunning region. Not only does it give you the freedom to travel when and where you’d like, it’s also the best way to cover ground. Ski resort breakfast walk, afternoon on the lake, evening dinner in town? It’s easier by car.
It’s nice to take it slow from time to time, but having four wheels will open up a far wider range of accommodation options, places to explore and new things to discover. As a bonus, it’s also delightfully easy to park around here (although I’m not giving away all my best secret parking spots!), so unless you’re planning a stay in the old town parking will likely be free and plentiful.
There’s no perfect answer to ‘where should I stay’ on Lake Annecy – there are so many fantastic options, but every traveller has different priorities. So help you narrow down what might work well for you, I’ve suggested some options for different types of trip you might be embarking on.
Ideal for urban explorers visiting for a short stay, more likely travelling by public transport.
- When: Throughout the year.
- My recommendation: Opt for a hotel, bed-and-breakfast or airbnb in, or close to, the old town of Annecy.
- Why? If you’re looking to make to most of a short trip you’ll want to be in right in the heart of things. Make the most of an opportunity to stay in one of the charming historic buildings in this part of town and soak up the atmosphere. Plus you’ll find great public transport connections if you want to get out of town.
I can’t hesitate to recommend this fabulous airbnb we spent three days in during July 2016 – our host Laurane went out of her way to be helpful, it’s just round the corner from one of my favourite cafes and you couldn’t be better located for enjoying the old town.
Crowd-pleasing ideas for families and groups of friends looking to make the most of the lake and mountains, with own car or bike.
- When: Late spring through to late summer.
- My recommendation: Embrace the great outdoors and enjoy one of the dozens of campsites around the lake. You’ll find some fantastic sites, many with direct access to lakeside beaches. Look along the western side and at the southern end of the lake (in particular around the villages of Saint-Jorioz, Duingt and Doussard) where you’ll find everything from old-school pitches for campers and tents, EuroCamp sites with pre-erected tents, holiday chalets to glamping pods. I’ve also got a soft-spot for the village of Talloires which has a stunningly-located little campsite that traditionalists will love – Camping l’Horizon – as well as a beachfront campsite, that comes highly-recommended, at the Plage d’Angon.
- Why? Camping is budget-friendly, fun and sociable, plus you’ve got a wide range of accommodation options to suit your group. These sites are ideally located for those who want to spend the majority of their time at the lake or out exploring, and most are within an easy stroll of one of the pretty lakeside villages (for your everyday essentials and a slice of Alpine life).
Alpine inspiration for couples, friends and families planning a longer stay (a week or more) to explore the mountains and more of the region.
- When: Throughout the year
- My recommendation: Rent an apartment, gîte (French holiday home) or airbnb in one of the lakeside towns and villages. This is my favourite way to spent time on Lake Annecy.
- Why? If you’re keen to get out on foot or two wheels, staying outside of the city of Annecy will make it easier. Most apartments and homes will have parking, and a kindly word with your host will help you to find out whether bikes are also welcome. Staying here will give you a chance to enjoy small town life and indulge at some of the quintessential village cafes, bars and patisseries – plus Annecy is rarely more than an half hour drive away. Generally speaking, you’ll find better value rentals on the western side, côte ouest, of the lake, but for the best sunsets and easy access to the biggest peaks opt for the côte est, or east side.
So there’s my guide to one of France’s most beautiful cities – and some inspiration for shaping your stay into your perfect holiday.
Is there anything more you’d like to know? Post your Lake Annecy travel questions below and I’ll do my best to answer.
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Pretty half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, fantastic food – Troyes is the perfect place to break a journey or stop for a weekend if you’re travelling in France.
This past month has taken us on a bit of a French adventure. Living in the UK means that travelling to France by road can be just as easy – if not easier – than flying, and besides which, it had been a while since I’d last been on a proper road trip.
So we packed up the car for a jaunt to the continent. As we had a long road ahead of us, it made perfect sense (or rather it was the perfect opportunity) to make the most of our journey and weave in some interesting stops along the way. The curious traveller in me loves pouring over a map and picking out places that sound interesting … which is precisely how we ended up in Troyes.
Troyes happened to be the perfect half-way point between our channel crossing and our final destination in the Alps, but also sounded enticingly interesting. I’d heard that it was beautiful, but a bit of exploring online left me none the wiser when it came to the city’s charms. Rather than letting this put me off, there was only one thing to do – go and find out more.
Tell me about Troyes
Troyes is a historic town in the heart of France’s Champagne region. It’s a region littered with well-groomed vineyards, perfect sandy-coloured hilltop towns and decadent Champagne houses. But Troyes adds a colourful juxtaposition, with an old town centre full of teetering half-timbered medieval buildings that wobble three and four storeys high in winding little streets packed with cafes, restaurants and shops. The river Seine winds languorously through the town, with colourful flower boxes topping every bridge. It’s undeniably pretty, and a surprising contrast to it’s surroundings.
It’s not a huge city, and you can comfortably explore in just a few hours. This makes it a great stop if you’re travelling south to the Alps or the Mediterranean from the UK or northern Europe. It’d also make a great base to discover the surrounding area which includes the Fôret d’Orient national park, home to vast lakes as well as diverse woodland that’s perfect for walking and cycling.
With only a quick overnight stop for us to make the most of, we embarked on a whistle-stop tour (of sorts, invented on the spot) of Troyes’ highlights.
What to do in Troyes
The old centre of Troyes is loosely ringed by the Boulevards Gambetta, Victor Hugo and du 14 Juillet, and by the river Seine as it snakes it’s way through the city.
(At this point I’d like to clarify that I didn’t make these names up or steal them from a school French textbook – Troyes really does have the most quintessentially French sounding street names!)
The very centre is largely pedestrianised, and I’d recommended navigating your way to the Place Maréchal Foch to begin your explorations. From here, enticing winding streets disappear off in all directions, beautiful buildings look down on your from every angle and there’s a vibrant, lively feel with the street-side cafes full – in the early evening – with locals and visitors enjoying a last coffee of the day or a sneaky apertif.
The streets east of Place Maréchal Foch are amongst the prettiest, with ancient buildings and characterful restaurants and cafes woven amongst little squares and upmarket shops. Alongside Boulevard Gambetta you’ll find the verdant Jardin du Rocher and Jardin de la Vallee Suisse, a pair of pretty parks lush with vegetation in contrast to surrounding buildings.
Head west towards the river and you’ll find the delightful Mairie with colourful formal gardens laid out in front of it. Keep going in this direction and you’ll stumble across the monumental Cathedral of St. Pierre and St. Paul, a cluster of stunning gothic churches including the Basilica of St. Urbain as well a some of the city’s oldest university buildings.
There was plenty to keep us occupied for a few hours. Troyes in a town that’s best explored slowly, and on foot. There’s great architecture details to be found, an attractive riverside and an abundance of lively cafes in which to soak up the traditional French atmosphere.
Where to eat in Troyes
Much as I could quite happily have spent our short visit munching my way through as many of this city’s establishments as possible so that I could share them with you, sadly common sense prevailed and instead I’m making one outstanding recommendation.
You’ll find plenty of smart-looking looking restaurants around Place Maréchal Foch, Rue Urbain VI and Rue Champeaux. They mostly offer typical French dishes, with appetising menus du jour advertised on chalkboards where the resturant tables spilled onto the street. But we were looking for something a bit more unusual that a bit of online research had hinted at.
Just before 7pm we headed to Les Halles, the old covered market building close to the town centre. In the square outside was just what we were hoping for – a big, red double-decker bus.
Claire & Hugo rolls into town most weeknights, and some lunchtimes (check their Facebook page for more details as their schedule seems to vary occasionally). They park up, put up pretty little cafe tables and umbrellas outside and proceed to cook incredible hand-made burgers, desserts, and quite determinedly, no chips.
We couldn’t have wished to find anything better. Their menu was genuinely interesting, with fantastic burger toppings (Parmesan on a burger just happens to be the greatest thing I’d never tried) and delicious side salads that outshone most burger joints I’ve ever visited. No chips meant oven-roasted, local Charlotte potatoes with just a touch of salty butter. Home-made pannacotta with ginger, nectarine, raspberry and mint was an absolute delight. And all this, for less than €30 for the both of us, including drinks. I’d go back to Troyes just to try it all again.
We only had a few hours in Troyes before heading off to our Airbnb a few kilometers out of town, and then on towards the Alps. But this delightful little city really charmed me, and felt surprisingly alive and very French even during the peak of the European-summer-holiday-season. There’s a great feeling when leaving a place you’d be happy to return to again, and would even go out of your way to revisit – and that’s how I felt about Troyes. I’ll be back one day, and I hope to enjoy it just as much.
Have you discovered any hidden gems en route to other destinations? I’d love to hear your stories (and borrow some inspiration) below.
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The practical bit
If you’re travelling by road, as we were, Troyes can be reached from junction 23 of the A26 autoroute. It’s about a ten minute drive to the city centre. Parking can be found on Boulevard du 14 Juillet at a rate of about €1 per hour. If you’re heading back to the autoroute, you’ll pass through a commercial centre on the outskirts of town – fill up on supermarket petrol here to save a generous amount compared to motorway service stations.
Troyes is also served by high speed rail services from Paris, with direct trains from Gare de l’Est taking as little as an hour and a half. Check out the SNCF website for more details.
With it’s fairytale turrets, ancient stone walls and commanding views over the vineyards of southern France, the fortified medieval town of Carcassonne is steeped in history and an unsung Mediterranean hero. But there’s more than meets the eye – fantastic food, an enchanting city centre and the Canal du Midi add to the rich patchwork of this spectacular French town. My travel guide shares the highlights and lesser-known gems of this region that I’ve tried and tested.
There’s something timeless about the south-west of France, where it feels like the narrow, winding streets of sleepy market towns have changed little in centuries, and the Canal du Midi snakes languorously through vineyards and fields sheltered from the heat by ancient plane trees.
At it’s heart you’ll find Carcassonne, a medieval fortified town that crowns a green hill perched above the river Aude. With it’s soaring towers, imposing gateways and panoramic views there’s plenty to take your breath away. But its fairytale appearance is just the start, as a labyrinth of ancient streets and warm stone houses lure you in and invite you to explore.
I first discovered Carcassonne as a eight-year old … a highlight of summer holiday adventures in the Languedoc. A couple of summer’s ago I decided to head back, not quite sure what to expect, but curious to see if it had changed.
Returning to somewhere you loved as a child requires a bit of optimism and crossed fingers, and I’d had my doubts when we booked our trip. Would two twenty-somethings really love a city that had captured my imagination all those years ago?
Thankfully, the crossed fingers worked. The delights of the castle – known as la cité – hadn’t diminished at all since I was half the height I am now. Carcassonne today is just as awe-inspiring as it was twenty years ago – and the surrounding city and region is blooming. Architecturally, it’s fascinating, but it’s also great fun. Whether you’re into vineyards, history or pretending you’re a medieval knight for the day, there’s something for everyone in this magical French town.
A potted history of Carcassonne
The area around Carcassonne has been inhabited since neolithic times. But the first major construction in the region began under Roman rule, when a hilltop castle was built on the site of the current fortified town. A small settlement grew up around the castle, but things didn’t really get interesting until the Visigoths came along in the 5th century.
Building on the footings of the now decaying Roman stronghold, the Visigoths constructed a substantial and strategically-located fortress and thus, the medieval city of Carcassonne was born. Despite the rise and fall of the Visigoths and many attempts to take the fortified cité, Carcassonne not only managed to survive but also sustain a community both inside and outside of it’s walls for almost a thousand years.
It wasn’t until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659 that the state of Rousillion, of which Carcassonne and it’s surrounding lands were a part, was ceeded to France and much of the city’s military importance diminished. From this point onward, without a substantial military presence, the town fell into disrepair and was largely abandoned.
All wasn’t lost though. The Ville Basse, which had grown up around the foothills of the castle, began to flourish as a market town and a burgeoning industrial centre as the nineteenth century arrived. Two other arrivals were to prosperity to the city: the Canal du Midi in the late eighteenth century, and architect Viollet-le-Duc.
A nostaglic interest in medieval France and it’s architecture started to bloom in the early nineteenth century, and Viollet-le-Duc was hired to undertake restorations of some of the country’s most iconic buildings. Alongside Notre-Dame de Paris, Mont St. Michel and Fougere, he tackled the crumbling remains of Carcassonne, bringing la cité back to life (and embellishing slightly as he went, die-hards will tell you the pointed turrets are not original – but I rather like them).
In the last hundred years or so the Ville Basse has continued to grow into a lively, vibrant city, and the castle on the hill has flourished.
There’s more than enough to keep even an intrepid visitor occupied for a day in the fortified cité.
My best advice is to follow your feet and happily explore. If you have the chance, come back at different times of day to experience atmospheric evenings and enjoy cool, quiet mornings. To get you started, here a few of my favourite things to do;
- Get lost in the labyrinthine streets. Explore beyond the main street and find hidden alleyways, cosy squares, beautiful houses as well as monumental gates and doorways.
- Walk the walls. In parts, you can walk between the two outer walls of la cité (between the Porte Narbonnais and the smaller gate near Place Saint-Nazaire) looking up at the imposing towers and fortifications. Or, to escape to a part of the medieval city without any crowds, head out the Porte de l’Aude to the west and wander the rugged little footpaths that hug the outer walls, clinging on between the castle and vegetable gardens below.
- Discover the Château Comtal. Or rather the outside of the château. Confession: I’ve never actually been inside (it’s worth noting you’ll need to buy tickets if you want to look around the interior). But the building is one of the most impressive you’ll see within the fortifications, and if you take a little side street to the right of the entrance, you can stroll around the little ornamental garden at the foot of the castle walls.
- Find stunning stained glass in the Basilique Saint-Nazaire. The extraordinarily colourful windows in this medieval church are believed to be the oldest in southern France.
- Soak up a panorama or two. Head out towards the walls and you’ll find spectacular views opening up. To the south, look out over a vista of vineyards as far as the eye can see, and to the north take in the town centre with it’s own city walls.
- Eat. Yes, I’m predictable. But you might think that somewhere this popular isn’t the best place to find delicious local food. However, I’m happy to report that with a little judicious decision making there are some great restaurants to be found in la cité. Plus, the atmosphere on a summer’s evening can’t be beaten – grab yourself a table on a terrace and a glass of delicious local wine.
Whilst during the summer months you might have to negotiate the winding streets with crowds during the day, don’t be fooled into thinking Carcassonne is just for show. 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 356 days a year the town is alive. Beyond the château, shops and restaurants, real people live here too and one of the charms of the place is spotting to the signs of everyday life that pepper the streets. And for more local flavour, head towards the Ville Basse beyond.
The Ville Basse
Whilst most visitors stay within the walls of the castle, you’re missing a trick if you don’t explore the rest of the city.
Step away from the entrance of the Porte Narbonnais and you’ll find a few winding streets weaving their way down to the river Aude. Here you’ll find the old bridge, now pedestrianised, that invites you to explore the other side to this remarkable city.
The Ville Basse (also known as the Bastide Saint-Louis) is the living, breathing heart of the modern city of Carcassonne – but it’s all relative. The town grew up in the middle ages and the majority of buildings now occupying this space date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Thanks to flourishing industry over the past few centuries and a location at the centre of a prosperous winemaking region, the town has thrived.
The old centre is loosely ringed by old city walls – not in the same league as the castle on the hill, but reminiscent of the bastide towns you find in this part of the world. Enter through one of the old city gates and you’ll find yourself in a warren of cool, shady streets that criss-cross and intersect with one another. Whilst you’ll find a few local cars here, it’s best explored on foot.
At the geographic and metaphorical centre you’ll find the main square – Place Carnot, home to the Saturday morning market that explodes weekly in a riot of colour, scent and sound. Any other day, you’ll find it a quieter spot to enjoy coffee under the shade of the plane trees or an early evening aperitif. There’s a nice selection of shops to explore and a fantastic old-fashioned covered market building just off the main square is home to the traditional butchers, cheesemongers and fishmongers of the city.
I love the streets of the Ville Basse best early in the morning, on my way to pick up fresh bread and pastries for breakfast from the boulangerie on Place Carnot.
Beyond the centre
Carcassonne might be a city, but that doesn’t mean green spaces don’t abound. Aside from the rolling countryside and farmland of the regions, two of my favourite places to walk are alongside the river Aude and the Canal du Midi which weave their ways through the city centre.
The river crashes it’s way down through Carcassonne from its source in the Pyrenees en route to the Mediterranean coast. In summer, it’s quite gentile, and it’s river banks are a cool and shady spot to stroll and escape the heat of the day. You’ll also find some great campsites along its banks as you head out of town.
The canal may be more sedate but it’s no less beautiful. Join the towpath near the railway station and walk in either direction. We hired mountain bikes and headed out discover the countryside, and followed the canal as far as Trebes – about 10km out of town – before heading off into the vineyards and sun-soaked farmland beyond. Cycling alongside the canal is glorious, and the shade of the plane trees offers a little relief from the sun on a hot day.
Although the Mediterranean coast is only an hour or so away by car or train (and that’s a story for another day), there’s a refreshing alternative nearer to town. Lac de la Cavayere is where the locals go to cool down. A short bus ride or drive from town brings you to this pretty little lake – set in a midst of a Mediterranean pine forest.
Lac de la Cavayere started life as a reservoir before becoming a beach and the spot where Carcassonne locals come to escape the heat and crowds and make the most of the summer (it’s surprisingly common in south-west France even if it feels a little alien to us Brits). It’s somewhere you can swim, sunbathe and stroll to your hearts content. Family-friendly, it’s also great for active folks with trails all around the lake and nearby woodland, watersports and picnic-spots galore.
Have you visited Carcassonne, and found any hidden treasures I’m yet to uncover?
The practical bit
We flew direct to Carcassonne from Bournemouth with Ryanair. From the airport, it’s a short bus ride (services run regularly) or taxi to the city centre.
We booked a fantastic apartment (Apartment Massena to be precise) right in the centre of things from the incredibly nice people at Carcassonne Apartments. Beautifully restored and comfortably furnished, it was the perfect base for a week’s stay and only a few minutes walk from the highlights of this small city. It’s located on Rue du Pont Vieux, halfway between la cité and the Ville Basse, and only a minute or two from the river Aude.
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There are few more beautiful, and dramatic, landscapes to walk in than the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland. My guide to four breathtaking walks in this incredible region take in some of the absolute highlights, all in the shadow of the Jungfrau and Eiger mountains.
Last summer we spent a week in the spectacular Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. There’s a lot to love about this mountainous region, but it’s also a funny one. The towns are neat and pretty and very Swiss, but they’re not all packed with character. It’s an area that’s been welcoming tourists for well over a century, but in places feels a little like its heyday has been and gone. There seems to be few people visiting to walk, camp and discover it’s wild wonders, yet many arriving to tick off photo opportunities and railway stations.
You could look at this and wonder, is this really somewhere to come and explore the mountains? The answer is an emphatic yes. It doesn’t matter if the majority don’t fancy treading the mountain trails – you can adventure without crowds and enjoy the peacefulness of the alpine pastures. It doesn’t matter if camping isn’t the most popular choice here – you can enjoy great campsites, in stunning locations, without steep prices and often without having to book ahead. There’s an awful lot of reasons to give this region a chance.
For me, exploring the walking trails of this alpine region were the highlight of our trip. And to be fair, one of the main reasons for coming here in the first place. Nothing makes this spectacular landscape feel more alive than the crunch of stone underfoot, the heady scent of pollen from pasture flowers, the gentle lolling sound of bells around grazing cow’s necks and the feel of sun on your back. Travelling slowly on foot gives you a chance to take it all in, spot the details and soak up the grandeur of it all – from the granite coloured peaks to the tiny alpine flowers peppering the meadows.
You can read my itinerary for a perfect 7 days in the Bernese Oberland here, but today I’d like to share my four favourite walks from our trip – and share the much-underrated side to this popular part of Switzerland.
A note on walking
This post tells the story of some our hikes – but isn’t intended as a guide or map to help you reach these locations. If you’re planning on walking in this area, seek advice from the helpful folk at Interlaken Tourism who can point you in the direction of recognised routes. You’ll also find many well-signposted paths with distances estimated in hours rather than kilometres that will help you plan your own adventures. We’re experienced road and trail runners who were tackling challenging paths in good weather, it might not be possible to replicate these routes on your visit.
1: Schynige Platte from Interlaken
There are dozens of routes that can be tackled from Interlaken, but this one is special thanks to the panoramic views over some of the iconic peaks and villages of the Bernese Oberland. At 2,076m, the climb to the top is not to be underestimated but is well worth it for the views over the Eiger, Monch and Jungfraujoch, and the valleys below.
From Interlaken we took a relatively gentle walk to Wilderswil, a small village 2km out from the town at the foot of the mountain. It’s a surprisingly pretty little village with considerably more charm than Interlaken itself, and an old centre dotted with ornamental chalets and a fantastic covered bridge. Wilderswil is worth a visit in it’s own right, but if you’re planning to tackle the mountain, it’s best to get started in plenty of time.
A small path leads up into woodland from behind the church, and very quickly begins to steepen. At first, it weaves in and out of lush woodland and lowland pasture grazed by goats, ponies and the odd llama. Soon enough, you leave the meadows behind and the real climb begins under the cool dark trees. The woodland is ancient and impressive, but nothing compared to what you’ll find further up beyond the treeline. Occasionally, the mountain railway will cross your path as you head steadily up.
When we tackled this route the day began wet and overcast, but after an hour or two of climbing, as the trail headed upwards at a considerable rate, the sun began to break through the trees and cast dappled light across our path. We could tell that the forest was thinning, and before long the path ahead rose out of the tree line and into high alpine meadow.
While not an accurate half-way mark, the journey up is broken by the delightful discovery of the small railway station at Breitlauenen. The station is nestled between a dairy farm and a smattering of chalets, high in a meadow. It’s the most wonderfully idyllic spot, with breathtaking views down over both lakes Brienz and Thun, and the gentle low-pitched ring of cow bells from cattle grazing all around. The station master spends much of her time chasing chickens and sleepy cats from the line whenever a bell rings and a distant rumble warns of an impending train.
From here, the climbing is less steep but you pass in turn through woodland, meadow and along rocky paths that increasingly test your courage as you encounter a few vertiginous drops to the side of the path. You move more slowly, but the views more than make up for it. All of a sudden you round a corner and find yourself at the station and the summit. You’re now looking down on the Grindelwald valley and the mighty Eiger at it’s head. It’s a nice spot to stop at and simply take it all in. There are alpine gardens to meander around near the station and a cafe if you’re in need of something cold and refreshing.
It is possible to complete the climb and make it back down within a day, but for us an impending storm was closing in. The scurrying clouds and dark skies looked incredibly dramatic from this mountaintop viewpoint, but we needed to take the safe option this high up, so descended quickly to Breitlauenen just as rain started to fall, and sheltered in the wonderful quaint waiting room of the station until a train came along to take us back down to valley floor.
2: Lauterbrunnen, Stechelberg, Gimmelwald and Mürren – a circular walk
This walk is a good way to get a feel for the magical valley of Lauterbrunnen.
Starting just outside Lauterbrunnen, we steadily meandered our way along the flat valley floor and through lush green fields in the direction of Stechelberg, at the head of valley. A quieter access road runs parallel to the main road (that mostly serves the Trummelbach Falls and gondola lift at Stechelberg), and you’ll find it largely empty aside from a few other walkers and the odd farmer. This alone is a beautiful walk, with some of the highest and most spectacular waterfalls in the whole valley as you approach to the small hamlet at Stechelberg. Between the crescendo of falling water and the roar of the river there’s quite a dramatic atmosphere.
Once in Stechelberg you have the choice of taking the gondola (cable car) up the mountain (services run throughout the year) or taking the old path up through the forest. We opted for the latter and began to scramble up the winding rocky path alongside a crashing waterfall. The path widens out after a short but steep climb and heads steadily uphill. After a couple of kilometres, the path emerges from the trees and chalet roofs start to pop up through the pasture. You’ve reached the edge of Gimmelwald (where you can also jump out at the mid-station of the gondola).
Gimmelwald is one of the most unspoilt alpine villages in the Bernese Oberland, in part because it’s one of the least accessible – it’s car-free, and mostly little farms and a cheery hostel. The village is perched on the edge of a hanging valley facing the imposing Breithorn mountain – which can be seen the length and breadth of the Lauterbrunnen valley. It’s a peaceful spot, with just other hikers and few goats for company.
Many of the farmhouses here sell produce from their front doors, so we indulged in fresh milk and the local Alpkäse cheese – thick and creamy and delicious beyond belief after our climb.
From Gimmelwald a paved road leads gently uphill without much of a view to hint at what’s beyond. What lies ahead is the picturesque and affluent ski resort of Mürren – a paradise of immaculately-presented Swiss chalets with balconies laden with cherry-red geraniums in August, cosy restaurants peddling hearty cuisine and jaw-dropping views across to Wengen (on the opposite side of the valley). We stopped and spent a little time exploring, and enjoying the welcoming atmosphere and an Alpkäse sandwich or two.
You can return back down to the valley by mountain train or on foot from Mürren. The little train brings visitors and their luggage up the mountain from the main station in Lauterbrunnen and takes a scenic route winding through woodland. We took the forest road down on foot – a considerably longer walk than our route up but the road was much gentler as it wove between pastures and dense forest. As you head back down into the village below, views open up towards Wengen, high on the opposite side of the valley and also towards the far end of lake Thun, glistening in the distance.
The last part of the descent back down into Lauterbrunnen is steeper, but the sound of cow bells and the spire of the village church in the distance guides you into town. Put your feet up and enjoy a well-earned coffee and slice of cake at Airtime, a vibrant little cafe at the heart of this pretty but quiet village.
3: Kleine Scheidegg and Männlichen via Wengen
Truth be told, we weren’t blessed with good weather on our trip to the Bernese Oberland, in spite of it being summer. But the day that we tackled this route the sun finally came out, blazing all day long and leading, inevitably, to moderate sunburn and excessive photographing of alpine pasture.
I just can’t help myself sometimes.
This route was probably the one I enjoyed most during our week here, as it climbs out of the Lauterbrunnen valley and into the Grindelwald valley, tucked away behind high peaks. It brings you unbelievably close to the Jungfraujoch and Monch – craggy rock faces topped with snow fill the horizon whilst you stroll short-sleeved through warm, flower-filled meadows.
As with the previous routes, there’s the option to take the mountain railway almost all the way to the top here, with stations at Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg, so you can adapt the route to suit your fitness and enthusiasm.
Starting in Lauterbrunnen, we tackled the first path of the day, steeply, up through the trees to Wengen. It’s not a long walk but it was one of the most strenuous. Eventually you’ll be rewarded by the arrival of Wengen on the horizon, with it’s panoramic views and cheerful atmosphere. Like Mürren, Wengen is a ski resort with a long heritage. It hosts one of the most prestigious events in the World Cup series, and has a younger and more vibrant feel than it’s neighbour on the other side of the valley. You’ll find more chocolate-box chalets and grazing cattle here, but also a lively main street with cafes, bars and shops.
After you’ve explored Wengen, it’s time to head higher for the serious views. A forest road takes you up and away from the resort centre, heading towards Kleine Scheidegg at the col which sits between the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald valleys. The climbing isn’t too hard here, and before you realise it you’ve risen out of the trees and are facing towards the snow-capped Jungfraujoch in all it’s glory. Kleine Scheidegg is a couple of kilometres from Wengen, sitting atop a little lake with a railway station and cluster of hotels and restaurants. It’s a real little community and meeting point for hikers coming up from both Wengen and Grindelwald, and well as tourists exploring on their return from the Jungfraujoch.
But if you stop here and head home, you’ll have missed the chance to experience one more stunning views over the valleys – from Männlichen. A winding but largely flat path heads from the station in the direction of this peak that sits directly above Wengen. From here you can see not only see where you’ve come up from in Wengen and the valley, but also look down over lake Thun. The Männlichen gondola makes for an exciting descent back into town after a long day on your feet.
4: Grindelwald to First and Bachalpsee
The last hike of our trip to the Bernese Oberland was from the luscious Grindelwald valley up to First. It gives you a chance to view the magnificent Eiger and it’s glaciers as you climb higher, and there are hidden treats in the form of high alpine lakes and glaciated landscapes to capture your imagination.
A trail rises up from centre of town at first on quiet road, and then on path and forest road, roughly following the route the gondola takes to First. The gondola crosses over the path high above your heads in places, whilst you weave between pasture and deep green woodland. About midway, you reach the little hamlet of Bort, where the path suddenly widens and emerges into a bowl with a deep blue lake crowned by a couple of mountain restaurants. You’re edging closer to the Eiger here, and the trail breaks out of the trees for the remainder of the route.
The last part of the climb is hard work with tired legs, as ours were after a week of hiking. But the views were breathtaking, and stone water troughs spouting little cascades of cold, fresh spring water meant that we could refill our bottles in an attempt to keep cool. As you approach the summit the mountainside gently rolls away to your right, with curious shapes and hummocks in the landscape a legacy of glaciers working their magic over thousands of years. This is the most peaceful part of the walk, as most visitors choose to take the gondola all the way to the top from Grindelwald.
Reaching the peak at First in itself is impressive – views open up across the whole of the Grindelwald valley with the Eiger to your left, Kleine Scheidegg with the pass over to Wengen and the Lauterbrunnen valley ahead, and Schynige Platte to your right. Into the bargain, you’ll find a skywalk to explore, letting you circle the cliff faces below the lift station with nothing but glass under your feet. But the real reason for coming is to see Bachalpsee, a gentle walk of a couple of kilometres from the summit.
I could describe how beautiful Bachalpsee is, the peaks all around are reflected in deep turquoise waters, but I think the pictures go someway to doing it justice.
Whilst most walkers choose to head back to the lift station at First from here, or onwards to Schynige Platte, we chose to take a combination of footpath and forest road back down into Grindelwald. The path down from Bachalpsee to meet the forest road was one of the most glorious areas of pasture I’ve ever explored. Little streams trickle down from the lake, babbling amongst the stone and meadow flowers, whilst cattle and goats graze quietly, obvious to the majesty of their home. Once you hit the forest road it’s a steady, easy to follow route that soon plunges back down into woodland and dense forest in places. It eventually brings you out just above the centre of Grindelwald, where you can meander back into town.
We were exhausted. After a week of walking almost all day, every day, we felt we’d packed in as much as we absolutely could. But there’s still room for more – a week felt more like an appetiser for the region. It might not be any time soon but I’ve no doubt we’ll be back, ready to spread our wings a little wider and discover some more peaks.
P.S. Don’t forget that you can find out more about what we got up to on our alpine adventure in The perfect 7 days in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
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With huge thanks to my ever-patient other half for his photographs featuring yours truely.
The Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger. There are few more iconic alpine peaks. The wonderland Bernese Oberland in Switzerland is home to all three, alongside the magical Lauterbrunnen valley and elegant ski resorts of Mürren and Wengen. My travel guide shows you how to pack in the absolute highlights of this region into a perfect seven days.
There are few places ever I’ve wanted to explore more than the Bernese Oberland. I remember being mesmerised as a small child by photos of the Lauterbrunnen valley, as my Dad projected his old slides onto our living room wall. And as I slowly started to explore more and more of the Alps, a yearning remained – to visit this mythical region of Switzerland that I’d heard so much about, but could only imagine.
Whilst the name Bernese Oberland (or Berner Oberland to Swiss-German speakers) might not ring any bells, the extraordinary peaks and valleys of this area might be more familiar. From the imposing Eiger to the majestic Jungfrau, the magical Lauterbrunnen valley to the picture-perfect alpine resorts of Wengen and Mürren, breathtaking lakes Thun and Brienz to the cultural melting pot of Interlaken – it’s a bounteous region of rugged cliff faces, snow-capped mountain tops, sparking blue lakes and flower-filled meadows.
You could spend a lifetime exploring these mountains, but you’ve got to start somewhere. So I bit the bullet, booked some flights last summer and set out to explore some of Switzerland’s grandest summits and most enchanting valleys. It didn’t disappoint. Whilst you can’t possibly pack in all the wonderful places to visit here into one week, I want to share my recommendation for a perfect seven days in the bewitching Bernese Oberland. Enjoy!
7 day itinerary
Arrive in Interlaken and explore the town. Stay in Interlaken.
Visit Schynige Platte for an overview of the Bernese Oberland. Stay in Interlaken
Head to Harder Külm and travel to Lauterbrunnen. Stay in Lauterbrunnen
Explore the Lauterbrunnen valley, Gimmelwald and Mürren. Stay in Lauterbrunnen
Visit Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg. Stay in Grindelwald
Discover alpine lakes at Bachalpsee. Stay in Grindelwald
Depart Grindelwald via the lakeside town of Thun
How to get to the Bernese Oberland
Any of Switzerland’s major international airports make a good starting point. Geneva and Zurich are a few hours by road and rail, and Bern is even closer. If you’re travelling by road from elsewhere in Europe, as you might expect the motorway network is fast and efficient, with Interlaken well-signposted a good 100km or more out.
How did we do it? We flew to Geneva with from London Gatwick with Easyjet, ready to pick up our next mode of transport.
How to travel in the Bernese Oberland
Despite its wild mountains and deep lakes, the Bernese Oberland is surprisingly easy to travel in. The Swiss know a thing or two about transport planning. Travelling by road or rail is your best option, and both are thankfully easy here.
For drivers, Interlaken is only 45 minutes by motorway from Bern, and once you’re off the motorway each of the valleys are well served by well-signposted A roads. The mountain resorts of Mürren and Wengen are both car free – it makes a lot of sense once you see their mountainside locations. However, the long stay car park in Lauterbrunnen can take of your car for a few days whilst you make the most of the multitude of other ways to reach these pretty towns.
On the other hand, Switzerland is a rail traveller’s dream. The mountains and valleys of the Bernese Oberland are interlaced with railway lines served by frequent and punctual services. There are regular services to Interlaken from major Swiss cities, including Bern and Zurich, and international connections too. You can reach almost every mountain town and sizeable village in this region by train – but I’d recommend booking in advance wherever possible to save on what can be pricey tickets.
How did we do it? We rolled our transport and accommodation into one with the help of the lovely people at Blacksheep campervans. We hit the road in our own little VW Caravelle for the week and took advantage of being able to park up in our campsites.
Where to stay in the Bernese Oberland
There’s three main options when it comes to accommodation in this part of the world; upmarket hotels, homely hostels and campsites.
If hotel travel is your thing you’ll find Interlaken, Mürren and Wengen packed full of places to stay – from alpine style chalets in the mountain resorts to palatial-looking establishments encircling the common at the centre of Interlaken. Most are independent businesses with the exception of one of two in Interlaken, giving you a chance to experience something a little different. You’ll also find a couple of large hostels in Interlaken with mostly dorm accommodation, and a smattering up in the mountains. Try the Swiss Youth Hostel Association to find out more.
Then there’s my favourite option, camping. Whilst there are plenty of reasons why you might not be keen to camp in the mountains, the joys of camping here outshine any downsides by a country mile. The locations and views are breathtaking, the sense of peace immense and the joy of waking to the sound of tumbling waterfalls just beyond your pitch is immeasurable. It’s also by far and away the easiest and best-value accommodation you’ll find in Switzerland.
Isn’t Switzerland expensive?
In a word, yes. But it really depends what you want to do. We love to walk and trail run, and had our own transport. Couple this with camping and it can be a surprisingly budget-friendly trip, with campsites costing between €20-€40 per night for two people (depending on whether you have a tent or campervan). The major expenses you’ll find here are a train travel, cable car travel, hotel accommodation and eating out.
If you’re happy to seek circular walking routes, where you’re not reliant on public transport, exploring these alpine peaks and passes can be free. And given that the area isn’t renowned for great eating out, opt to self-cater if possible and take advantage of the two large supermarkets in Interlaken (Migros and Lidl) to stock up on the basics. There’s also a good supermarket and better value-for-money eating out to be found in Grindelwald.
What to do in the Bernese Oberland
Day 1: Interlaken
You’ll want to begin your adventures in Interlaken, the centrepoint of the region. This funny little town is one of the oldest resorts in the world and a transportation hub set in the lowland plains that stretch between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. There’s plenty to stroll and see – the centre may be packed with hotels, shops and lost-looking tourists but there are pretty squares to be found in Unterseen, peaceful paths down by the river and enticing views up into the Lauterbrunnen valley. Think of it as a gateway to an alpine wonderland. Make yourself comfortable on day one, get settled in and get ready for exploring on day two.
Day 2: Schynige Platte
To give yourself a real feel for the area, spend your first full day on a journey to Schynige Platte, one of the impressive peaks that stand sentinel at the entrance to the Lauterbrunnen valley. From the top of Schynige Platte you can look down not only on the town of Interlaken, nestled between lakes Brienz and Thun, but also the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald valleys, with the mighty Eiger and snowcapped Jungfrau as a larger than life backdrop.
Schynige Platte can be reached on foot in a day if you’re confident tackling some steeper climbs and tricky paths near the top. Alternatively, take the quaint mountain railway from Wilderswil. Snaking up the mountain, it first passes through fields and then forest until it breaks through the trees at the intermediary station of Breitlauenen. The station alone worth is stopping at, the charming old building and waiting room haven’t been renovated in living memory. The most joyous experience here though is to watch the lovely station master at work, whose main priority appears to be ushering free-range chickens and sunbathing cats off the line whenever the bell rings to warn of an approaching train. The train crawls around rocky outcrops on the final few kilometres of the line until it breathlessly takes one last turn towards the station at the peak and the magnificent view to be found here.
P.S. You can read more about hiking the route to Schynige Platte in 4 breathtaking walks in the Bernese Oberland.
Day 3: Harder Külm and Lauterbrunnen
If you spent yesterday walking, you’re going to want to give your legs a bit of a rest before tackling higher mountains during the rest of the week. Today is the perfect day to take in Interlaken from a different angle.
Harder Külm is a smaller peak on the opposite side of the plain to Schnige Platte. There are lots of trails to explore on foot– all gentler than the yesterday’s climb – or you can take the old-fashioned funicular all the way from the centre of Interlaken to the viewing platform and café at the top.
Head to Lauterbrunnen in the afternoon and find your bearings in this little village of timbered chalets surrounded by alpine pasture. The valley of a thousand waterfalls is beyond spectacular, with cascades at every turn and steep cliff faces stretching high up from the meadows below. Stroll to the Staubbach falls on the edge of the village, where a short but steep path will take you underneath the waterfall itself, and if you’ve got time book a tour of the legendary Trummelbach falls – hidden within the walls of the valley itself.
Day 4: Lauterbrunnen, Gimmelwald and Mürren
Whilst the rock faces and steep sides of the Lauterbrunnen valley look impregnable from below, there are little paths and mountain railways that wind up to the hidden villages perched up on the high alpine pasture.
This side of the valley can be explored on foot or by a combination of cable car and railway with a little walking in between. From Stechelberg, a few kilometres walk from Lauterbrunnen, you can follow a steep walking route or take a speedy cable car to the idyllic village of Gimmelwald. All picture-postcard Swiss chalets, luscious gardens and alpine cattle, Gimmelwald is alpine charm personified. Meandering a little further uphill takes you into the larger resort town of Mürren, where you can explore pretty streets, take a breather in one of the many welcoming cafes and restaurants and enjoy fantastic views of Wengen and the Jungfrau across the valley.
You can return to Lauterbrunnen by mountain railway – the same way skiers and visitors to Mürren’s many hotels arrive – or take a long but gentle route on foot back down into the valley through woodlands and pasture.
P.S. It’s possible to walk this route – there’s more in my guide to 4 breathtaking walks in the Bernese Oberland.
Day 5: Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg
Having seen Wengen in this distance yesterday, today is a chance to properly explore it. Wengen is the home of world-class skiing and a pretty smart town to boot. A steep walk of a couple of kilometres will take you from Lauterbrunnen to the centre of town, or take a quick train ride if you prefer.
From here, you’re approaching the awe-inspiring triumvirate of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains. A train will take you all the way from Wengen to the snow-capped peak of the Jungfrau, or you can opt for some more spectacular hiking. We chose the latter and followed the lush, green route of the infamous Lauberhorn piste to Kleine Scheidegg, a railway mid-station at the cusp of the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald valleys, to take in the unbelievable views.
P.S. Find out more about beautiful walks from Kleine Scheidegg in 4 breathtaking walks in the Bernese Oberland.
Day 6: Grindelwald
A full day in Grindelwald is a chance to pack in one last peak – ironically named First. There’s a cable car from the resort centre to this mountain top, with unrivalled views of the Eiger. It’s another dream hike if you’ve any life left in your feet, with more steep paths twisting their way through pasture and deciduous woodlands.
A short and relatively flat walk will take from First to Bachalpsee, a hidden gem at the top of Europe. A crystal-clear, azure blue glacial lake is nestled in the folds of the mountain, and will take your breath away. Watch the water trickle down in little rivulets into the flower drenched meadows below, and pick your way along rocky paths to some of the high alpine farmhouses tucked away from view.
P.S. You might have guessed it … but there are some fantastic hikes to and from First too – check out 4 breathtaking walks in the Bernese Oberland for more spectacular scenery.
Day 7: Thun and goodbyes
It’s time to say goodbye, and promise you’ll be back. Make the most of a morning in Grindelwald if you can with a short stroll closer to town. If you’re heading back towards one of Switzerland’s transport hubs opt for a stop in the pretty lakeside town of Thun if you can. With colourful buildings packed in the medieval centre and traditional Swiss covered bridges galore, it’s a way to experience a different side to the Swiss landscape and culture.
The practical bit
We flew to Geneva from London Gatwick with Easyjet at the end of July 2016. We hired a VW Caravelle campervan for the week from the lovely folks at Blacksheep Annecy (actually located in the charming little French town of La-Roche-sur-Foron, about half an hour from Geneva airport). From here we drove to Interlaken to begin our adventure.
Three wonderful little campsites were our home for the course of the week;
Camping Jungfrau, Unterseen, just outside Interlaken
Easy to find, generous sized pitches (for a new van driver!), a lovely view and wandering distance from the centre of Interlaken, Camping Jungfrau made a good base for our first few days.
Camping Breithorn, Sandbach, about 3km from Lauterbrunnen
Set alongside the running river in the Lauterbrunnen valley, this old-fashioned campsite had everything we needed, with a generous side of river rapids and crashing waterfalls within arms reach.
Camping Eigernordwand, Grund, Grindelwald
Highly recommended to us by friends, this didn’t disappoint. Incredible views of the Eiger plus no need to book – they’ll always make room for you.
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Wales might a small country, but it punches above it’s weight when it comes to dramatic landscapes, fantastic walking and charming towns. It’s the perfect location for a road trip – with wonderfully diverse regions only a short drive apart. My travel guide shares my secrets for visiting the wild Gower, coastal Pembrokeshire and and marvellously mountainous Snowdonia.
I love a road trip. There, I’ve said it.
You can take the glamour of air travel and the speed of train travel, but for me there will always be something magical about travelling on four wheels. It cries out for spontaneity, for exploration and for taking that next turn “just because it looked interesting…”.
A road trip is an exhilarating way to explore a long way from home, but it’s also a brilliant way to see what’s just outside your door. Being based in the south of England, for me this means that wonderful Wales is only a few hours away by car. This pretty little country, home to breathtaking mountains, rugged coastline and colourful towns, is virtually on my doorstep.
So I thought I’d share my three favourite locations perfect for a Welsh weekend getaway. Or, if you can manage a longer stay they’re only an hour or two away from one another (so you can sandwich them together for a week or more of adventures). Wales may be close to home, but it still feels like an adventure.
From the vintage charms of the seaside resort of Mumbles to the glorious expanses of golden sand at Rhossili, there’s plenty to keep you occupied on the Gower peninsula. Just a short skip and a jump from the bustling city of Swansea (where Saturday night on the town is quite an experience), you’ll find this peaceful corner of the Welsh countryside. Within a short drive of city centre you’ll find hidden coves, lush heathland, ancient castles and windswept clifftops that’ll take your breath away.
It’s a surfers paradise, and a walkers one too. You can spend days exploring the many miles of coastal path, or bask in the glory of a British summer with a day at the beach. Oxwich bay is a gem that’s tucked far from the madding crowds between heather-carpeted headlands.
For something a bit different, make your way to the small village of Rhossili. Don’t be put off by the rather extortionate parking charges – I promise it’s worthwhile. Head off along the seemingly unexciting grassy headland until all of a sudden the landscape opens up in front of you. To your right, a breathtaking stretch of sandy beach extends into the distance – it’s been rated one of Europe’s best beaches, and it’s not hard to see why. To your left, at the far end of the headland sits the Worm’s Head, an oddly-named but ruggedly beautiful tidal island that adventurers can reach by scrambling across the rocks at low tides.
Where to stay in the Gower
Base yourself in Swansea – there’s heaps of good value accommodation and the Gower is only a twenty minute drive away. It’s a great stop en route to Pembrokeshire if you’re taking a longer trip.
Head west as far as you can go in Wales and you’ll reach Pembrokeshire. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of South Wales it’s home to stunning sandy surf beaches that rival anywhere in Europe, and charming fishing villages where the way of life has changed little in the past one hundred years.
It’s perfect country for hiking and cycling, so to make to the most of your visit you’ll want to explore on two feet or two wheels. The coastal path, close to the picturesque village of Trefin and ports of Abercastle and Porthgain, is spectacular and makes a great day’s walk. Sandwich with a pub lunch and a little meandering inland to make it a circular route.
If sand and surf is more your thing, Whitesands bay is only a few miles away and one of Wales’ best-kept secrets. There’s fantastic camping on the headland with views over the expanse of silver sand below.
At the end of the day, head to Solva harbour for sundowners and to watch fishing boats and yachts make their sedate way up the estuary for shelter overnight. Alternatively St. Davids, Britain’s smallest city, is only a few miles away. It’s a cosy little market town packed with picture-perfect cottages and pleasant pubs for whiling away an evening – just what you need after a long day on your feet.
Where to stay in Pembrokeshire
For a truly magical getaway, try Lottie the Lorry tucked away in rural Pembrokeshire. Having travelling the world, she’s come to rest on an idyllic farm near St. Davids. This bohemian, converted lorry is a comfortable, cosy holiday home for two with breathtaking views over the Welsh countryside.
Watching the sun rise over the misty fields beyond, and the stars overhead as we barbecued on our own terrace was beyond wonderful. We stayed in the lovely Lottie for two nights in August 2015 and booked through Quality Unearthed.
Snowdonia is the holy grail of hiking in Wales.
Aside from it’s namesake Mount Snowdon, there are countless peaks and valleys that you could spend a lifetime exploring and never tire of. Whether you’re visiting for the first time, or returning for new adventures, I’d recommend seeking out some of the less well-known mountains and walking trails.
My favourite is Cader Idris to the south of region. A steep path winds through the wooded hillside above the valley floor and eventually opens out onto pasture high above the treeline. Here you’re greeted by babbling streams running through the vibrant coloured heather underfoot, steep rock faces and tumbling stone paths than climb higher and higher. The crowning glory is the stunning tarn that sits surrounded by jagged peaks. It’s the closest I’ve ever felt to the Alps at home.
Where to stay in Snowdonia
We chose the remarkable St. Curigs Church, a few miles from Betws-Y-Coed, for a stay with a difference. A converted stone church, St. Curigs Chapel offers bed and breakfast as well as a bunkroom in one of the most spectacular buildings I’ve ever been lucky enough to stay in. The four-poster bed and hearty Welsh breakfast aren’t bad either.
St. Curigs Church, Capel Curig, Gwynedd, LL24 0EL
Of course, there’s much much more to Wales that just these three regions. But they’re a great starting point for any adventure, and places I’d happily return to again and again.
And as for other days on the road, where do you recommend? What are your favourite Welsh wonderlands?
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There are a hundred and one reasons to visit Spain’s elegant, exciting capital city. My favourite? Eating and drinking. From street-food markets to traditional cafeterias, incredible Spanish produce to the sweetest treats there’s something for everyone – and much, much more. Authentic tapas, cafe con leche, market life. Madrid’s a delight for the senses.
Madrid might just be my favourite city to eat in.
There are plenty of other reasons to visit the Spanish capital, and there are plenty of other cities reknown for great food, but there’s something about this place I just love.
It’s informal, it’s fun and it’s delicious.
Eating in Madrid is all about enjoying food with friends, embracing Spanish classics and sampling some of the best quality produce you’ll find anywhere in in Spain. When we spend a few days in this beautiful city last spring, we couldn’t help but stumble across fabulous food wherever we went.
Here’s my guide to off-piste eating in Madrid, one tapas at a time.
But first, coffee.
Madrid’s old fashioned cafeterias
There are are many wonderful breakfast treats to be enjoyed in Spain, from sharp freshness of pan con tomate to pillow-like tortilla. But the most indulgent of all is a plate of steaming hot churros straight from the the fryer, accompanied by a cup of thick, dark chocolate and a sweet cafe con leche. These crisp little fingers of dough, liberally sprinkled with sugar, taste divine and – for me – will forever taste of Spain.
You can enjoy churros from stands all round the city but nothing beats the authentic way, sat at the bar of a cafeteria on a chromed stool watching the ebb and flow of regulars popping by for their morning coffee. These little cafes can be found all across the city, and whilst they might not always be glamorous they’re about as real as it gets.
Don’t be put off if you’re not on two wheels, and the names on the wall don’t mean anything to you. This charming cafe may just be the answer to every cycling fan’s dreams, but it’s also home to the best coffee I tasted in Madrid. Pitching itself as a cafe/workspace/bar it’s actually a cosy bar and lounge with a menu that leaves the mind boggling (Lance Armstrong sandwich anyone?).
We popped in for morning coffee a few times – it’s a wonderful place to idly sit in the front window and watch the world go by in the little square outside – and on an evening for beers. Whether you happen to be a pro-cycling enthusiast (less likely) or just a lover of coffee (more likely), I’d rate La Bicicletta as one of my favourite stops in Madrid.
La Bicicleta, Plaza de San Ildefonso, 9, 28004, Madrid
Best for authentic Spanish groceries
Mercado San Anton
If you want to sample Spanish delicacies and pick up some of the highest-quality produce you can find in Madrid, you’ll love the San Anton market. Spread across several floors with a central atrium, the building alone is a good reason to visit. You’ll find delicatessens on the first floor, regional tapas from around Spain on the second and a rooftop restaurant on the third. We stopped here for tapas and a drink, and wished we had a kitchen to enjoy more of the mouthwatering cured meats, cheeses and rainbow-coloured vegetables on display.
Mercado San Anton, Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 24B, 28004 Madrid
Mercado de la Paz
Situated in the upmarket district of Salamanca, la Paz is a taste of authentic Spanish market life. It’s packed with stalls selling every imaginable grocery as well as great value cafes and bars. It’s not instagram-worthy and it’s not tourist-friendly (we had to practice our best Spanish here) but it is a wonderful slice of real-life, real food. Towards the back you’ll find a little cafe specialising in empañadas. Now I’m not entirely sure what was in mine, but they tasted heavenly – so if you find yourself nearby and hungry, it’s well worth stopping by.
Mercado de la Paz, Calle de Ayala, 28, 28001 Madrid
Best for tapas
Mercado de San Miguel
Just a few moments walk from Plaza Mayor, you’ll find this beautiful building. Recently restored, the brick archways are packed with high-end food stalls, stylish tapas bars and seductive cafes and patisseries. Yes, it attracts much of the tourist crowd, but don’t let this put you off as it’s still a delight for the senses. Head here early in the morning or later in the day to miss the crowds and sample some of the diverse tapas on offer.
Mercado de San Miguel, near Plaza Mayor, 28005, Madrid
Mercado de San Ildefonso
Our absolute favourite. Less traditional, more street food market slash entertainment space. Once you’re up the stairs, the market opens out into large entertainment space, with little tapas stalls forming a perimeter around the central area packed with tables.
It’s best on an evening when you can enjoy a beer or two, take your time to try different tapas cooked fresh in front of you and take in the atmosphere and entertainment. When we visited, we were delighted/amused/confused (in equal measure) by a stand-up comedy night taking place in the central space whilst we devoured endless plates of jamon, brochettes and more.
Mercado de San Ildefonso, Calle de Fuencarral, 57, 28004, Madrid
Calle Baja, La Latina district
When we weren’t eating our way through the delights of Madrid’s markets, you could find us on Cala Baja in La Latina district. This area has a reputation for being the one of the best spots for tapas in Madrid and we couldn’t begin to find a reason to disagree.
The busy street is packed full of bars, ranging from the slightly touristy to the very local. We found some great little places – the sort with nowhere to sit down and packed with locals – and we’d happily go back to time and time again. Pick the right place and the beers are cold, your tapas is free (and delicious), and the atmosphere lively.
Calle Baja, 28005, Madrid
We didn’t head to Madrid with the intention of making our trip an edible adventure – but it’s hard not to when there are incredible places to eat and mouthwatering displays of produce around every corner. The real joy of the Spanish capital is breaking free from restaurants where we might otherwise have eaten and seeking busy little bars, old-fashioned cafes and cavernous markets. It’s a little bit exciting, a lot of fun and whole lot of delicious.
Where are your favourite places to eat off the beaten path?
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With special thanks for my ever-patient travelling partner and other half @benrunsuk for sharing some of the photos above.
Whatever your budget, I’ve got 8 tips to help you make the most of your trip – and make travelling and experiencing a new location easier and more enjoyable.
Travelling can be expensive, there’s no bones about it.
The good news is that this doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of ways to make sure you’re getting the best value for money.
Being able to travel often is a balance of finding ways to get away that don’t cost the earth and being willing to explore off the beaten track. A budget trip doesn’t mean going without, rather it’s all about trying new things, getting out of your comfort zone and learning what the locals love. Some of my best travel memories come from discoveries we’ve made over the years that we might have missed if we’d opted for the easy (and more expensive) option.
As it’s always better to share, I thought I’d put pen to paper and offer my favourite ways to make the most of travelling on a budget. Here’s my top eight;
1. Be flexible with travel times
Think outside the box when it comes to when you want to travel. My other half is a teacher, so we’re often limited to school holidays – which can be pricier, especially when it comes to getting away to the sun. Our solution? Make the most of less popular times of year to travel. We love visiting northern Europe in the autumn half term, which usually falls at the end of October. Flights are cheap, cities are less crowded and you can enjoy the stunning displays of copper-coloured foliage that this time of year brings.
Make the most of off-season prices in June and September and delight in exploring without the crowds if you want to head to southern Europe. April and May are fantastic for city breaks as you can spend all day on your feet without sweltering or needing to pack your thermals. And try to book well in advance to make sure you get the best prices.
2. Bag a bottle
Something that stacks up pretty quick when you’re away? Bottled water. A few Euro here and there on every trip soon adds up. If you’re happy with tap water, grab yourself a travel bottle and top up for free in hotels and airports to save a pretty penny (that I like to consider a contribution to my beer and pastry fund). I’m obsessed with my Platypus bottle that has traipsed around Europe with me for the past couple of years. It folds completely flat and rolls up to squeeze in a handbag or pocket when empty, but can hold enough to keep me hydrated on a day’s hiking.
3. Ah, the Easyjet cheap flight finder
Not limited exclusively to Easyjet – most budget airlines have online tools to help you find their best value flights. If you know when you want to travel, use a cheap flight finder to pick your travel dates and set your departure airport – then let it suggest the best value for money flights available at that time.
It’s a novel way to solve the age old problem of “where should we go next?” and can throw up some suggestions you might never have otherwise thought of.
4. Don’t pay for baggage!! (unless you can help it)
Max out your hand luggage, and carry everything with you if you can. It might not work for everyone, or for longer trips, but you might surprise yourself with how much can be carried in your hand luggage allowance (check with your airline first, as this can vary).
If you need to take more, consider buddying up with your travel companions (easier, admittedly, with a partner than with mates) to share the allowance for checked in bags. Share a suitcase half and half – and remember that for most airlines you can carry up to 20kg, which coupled with your hand baggage allowance might be more than enough.
5. Plan your whole journey
I love an irresistibly cheap flight. But before you get overexcited and grab your wallet, take a few minutes to plan your whole journey, including the cost of travel to the airport and parking if necessary.
It might cost more to fly from your local airport, but if you can get there by public transport, or get a lift (and offer lifts in return to your kindly lift-giver) you might find your travel costs far less overall.
Don’t forget to consider alternative travel options too – Eurostar, long-distance coaches, and road trips by boat or Eurotunnel can be amazingly good value. And slow travel can be a fantastic way to soak up the atmosphere and see more of the world as you travel along at ground level.
6. The best things in life are free
I know, it sounds cliché. But it’s so true. Exploring the streets of Paris? Free. Watching the sun set over the Mediterranean in Korcula? Free. Meandering around the canals of Bruges? Free. I could go on.
I love to walk and get a feel for a place more than checking into museums and attractions. But if that’s more your cup of tea than mine, it pays to do your research. Many museums and galleries in London are free, the Prado in Madrid is free provided you arrive after 6pm, or 5pm Sunday (it’s a great way to spend an hour or two before seeking out drinks and tapas) and if you’re under 26 or a student (it’s always worth carrying your student card with you) you’ll find you’re entitled to a discount in most continental galleries and museums. Check prices and opening hours in advance and work out how to squeeze in a visit at the right time.
7. Don’t dismiss hostels
The budget traveller’s friend, hostels often can’t be beaten if you’re looking for a bed for a bargain price.
But don’t underestimate them if you don’t fancy spending your trips in a packed dorm full of snoring Australian’s on a gap year.
Some of the larger hostel chains, such as Generator, now offer high-quality accommodation in locations that can’t be beaten. There’s dorms if that’s your thing, larger private rooms that are ideal if you’re travelling with a group of friends or private, ensuite double rooms that are great for couples or families. I like the laid back atmosphere, the friendly staff and no-fuss approach of hostels which feels perfect for shorter trips.
My favourites? Generator in Paris can’t be beaten for quality, no-frills accommodation in a city where the hotel market is decidedly dicey. And for tapas lovers, the Oasis Hostal Toledo, Spain, has a secret roof terrace with stunning views, lovely cafe next door and beautiful double rooms with French windows opening onto the cobbled street outside.
Find out more about where you can find these views in my guide to 24 hours in Toledo.
8. Branch out for breakfast
If you’re booking hotels through a comparison site, such as booking.com, chances are you’ll be able to choose whether or not to include breakfast in your booking.
Now, if you’re staying in a more expensive location, and can manage three plates of food before 9am, book the breakfast! Fill yourself up and save on snacks later. My personal record: four full plates in the Comfort Hotel Malmö, a stunning hotel in Sweden’s glorious third city, that included hot options and hot waffles.
But, if you’re in southern Europe, think twice before you click ‘add’. For the 5 or 6 Euro it’ll cost for a hotel buffet, you could enjoy a coffee sitting on a sun-drenched cafe terrace watching the local market set up, and follow it with an irresistible buttery pastry from the bakery down the road. It’ll probably cost you less too.
If you’re visiting central and eastern Europe, supermarkets tend to be considerably cheaper than at home and we’ve enjoyed going to town on juices, granola and fruit for little more than a euro or two a day. It’s a great choice if you’re staying in an airbnb, and even better if you’ve got a terrace you can eat it on.
Rookie error: Don’t carry a bag of granola around Croatia for a week. You’ll be finding bits of granola in your clothes for weeks to come. I learned the hard way…
So there’s my eight top tips for making the most of travelling on a budget. What are your suggestions? Have you found any fantastic things to do for free, or recommend any great budget options?
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Less than an hour from the Spanish capital, Madrid, there’s fortified town crying out to be explored. With winding cobbled streets, majestic churches, rugged countryside and authentic tapas, it’s a perfect for an overnight stay. My travel guide shows you what to do, and most importantly, where to eat.
Spring has well and truely sprung this week in southern England.
I love this time of year. Warmer days, brisk April showers, longer evenings, trees bursting forth into leaf and blossom dusting the pavements of my hometown. It’s a beauty to watch the transformation a little sunlight and warmth can bring.
Last year, Easter fell this week and we headed south to Spain for a few days. The magnolias were in bloom, the trees lush with fresh new foliage and skies blue. It was the perfect antidote to the grey winter months we were only just leaving behind.
We spent a couple of nights in Madrid (you can read our visit in Eating your way around Madrid: One tapas at a time) before jumping on the train to medieval Toledo for our last two days. Baking in the spring sunshine beside the river, and within the old stone walls, Toledo seemed glorious. Although we only spent twenty four hours in this little slice of Spanish history, I couldn’t have been happier that I picked this location for our last night.
So, if you’re looking for some spring delight, you’ve found it here. It’s my guide to exploring the fortified town of Toledo, one tapas at a time.
Tell me about Toledo
Toledo is a ancient yet lively walled town situated in the region of Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain. It’s only half an hour from central Madrid by train, making it the perfect addition to a trip to the Spanish capital.
The station alone makes quite the architectural statement, with nods to the some the Moorish style buildings you’ll find within the town. But, situated a little way from both the newer town and historic walled centre, it feels quite an innocuous arrival. Follow the signs from the station and you’ll be wondering what the fuss is all about for a moment. There’s a main road and some modern buildings in the distance, but nothing to write home about. Suddenly the road bears round to the left and the old town, in all it’s glory, arrives in front of you perched above the river on a rocky outcrop.
Getting into the old town means crossing an ancient fortified bridge, then trekking up a couple of narrow, stone walled alleys. There are easier ways to do it (look out for the extraordinary sight of escalators criss-crossing the outer walls in places), but they’re not quite as fun. Eventually you’ll arrive in the centre of town, in the Plaza de Zocodover.
At this point in your journey, you’ll have to accept that Toledo – even out of season – is a very popular tourist destination, especially for coach trippers staying in, or visiting, nearby Madrid. We arrived at midday and were slightly dismayed to find that the square was packed full of school kids and chain restaurants that contradicted the fabulous entrance we’d experienced. But don’t let this put you off. And let me share our secret for making the most of a visit to this little town. Stay for the night! As the sun goes down, the crowds melt away and a new-old city emerges – atmospheric, alive with locals and full of quiet corners to enjoy a few drinks and tapas.
Where to explore in Toledo during the day
Head outside the city walls when the streets are packed. Our favourites? Exploring the riverside footpaths encircling the city, and Toledo’s Roman past.
Take a walk along the river
From the Puente de Alcantara you can get down onto a waterside path that tracks around the old town. It gives you a different perspective on the town – you’ll see views you just won’t find by road, and stumble across unexpected picnic spots and pretty houses aplenty.
Follow the path to the Puente de San Martin (a bridge that’s worth a visit in it’s own right, for it’s panoramic views) and cross over, away from the old town. Take a left turn and head up the hill for a couple hundred metres. On your left you’ll see a signpost and path leading to the chapel of La Cabeza. From here, you can look down on old Toledo from a completely different angle – it’s a great way to get a feel for where the largest, monumental buildings sit within the walls.
Take a walk back in time
Toledo began life as an Roman trading town, with strategic importance at the centre of the Iberian peninsula. It was a focal point for the many farming communities that surrounded it, and sported as it’s pièce-de-resistance a phenomenal arena or ‘circus’ that hosted sporting events and markets with crowds tens of thousands strong. Incredibly, substantial parts of this vast structure still remain, peppering a little park that’s sandwiched between the new and old town. They give clues to the vastness of the arena – as well as it’s impregnable construction.
Where to explore in Toledo on a evening
The early evening is the perfect time to stroll the cities meandering streets. Pop your head inside cavernous churches, soak up the sun with a beer or two in a streetside cafe, and seek out hidden squares and courtyards tucked away within the old city walls.
Take in the monumental buildings of Toledo – the Alcazar, the Cathedral, the many churches – like the locals do, on an evening stroll. And with gift shops and tourist cafes shuttered up for the day, look out for signs of life that have remained unchanged for decades, even centuries. Hand-painted signs on the rendered exterior of town houses hint at the traditional industries and trades that have contributed to Toledo’s wealth and success over the years. Pretty little trees in blossom bore signs of the summer that was to come.
Where to explore in Toledo on an early morning
This little Spanish city is especially magical first thing in the morning when the streets are quiet, but the sun gives Toledo and the surrounding hillsides and plains a glow you won’t see once it’s fully risen. Get up early and circumnavigate the city walls at first light, and enjoy the fresh air by the river. It’s a wonderful place to run, if that’s your thing. Or enjoy breakfast whilst watching the world go by from an old-fashioned cafe – tasty suggestions coming up.
Where to eat and drink in Toledo
Toledo is a curious place. As it metamorphoses from day to night, the somewhat generic restaurants and eateries packing the main square largely disappear as the evening approaches. It makes finding food more of a challenge, but I like a challenge. Fortunately, Toledo doesn’t fall short and there’s plenty to find if you’re willing to explore.
If cooking is your thing, head straight to Calle Coliseo (better earlier in the day than later) to scout out the traditional market that’s home to butchers, grocers, pescaterias and a handy supermarket. You won’t find better for authentic ingredients in town, and it makes a good stop if you want to grab a few indulgent essentials for a picnic lunch or breakfast.
If you’re hoping for someone else to do the hard work in the kitchen, make like a local and head to the Mercado de San Augustin just off Calle Silleria. More of a streetfood market, this recently renovated building is home to a handful of bars and restaurants across three floors offering up tapas, drinks and more on an evening. We found it packed with students (Toledo has a university campus nearby, and students are usually a good sign of fun and inexpensive food) forming a great long queue at Show Burguer. Not wanting to miss out, we joined the queue and tucked into gourmet burgers topped with local specialities.
As the night was still young, we meandered our way through the warm streets looking for somewhere to quench our thirst. We happily stumbled across La Maquerida de la Trinidad on the corner of Calle Trinidad. Charmed by the looks of it’s cosy interior, we retreated inside to enjoy a few beers and some of the most delicious complementary tapas I’ve ever enjoyed. Just don’t tell the owner we’d already eaten – we were enjoying woofing down delicious mouthfuls of homemade tortilla and little pinxos.
Lastly, if there is one meal I love most in Spain, it’s breakfast. We popped to the charming La Papa next door to our hostel to fill our boots. The very reasonably priced €3.50 ‘energetica’ breakfast left me comfortably full of pan con tomate, tostada and tortilla, and their cafe con leches tasted as good as any I’d savoured in Madrid’s more upmarket coffee shops.
Where to stay in Toledo
I can’t recommend the hostel where we stayed in Toledo enough. Even if you think you’re not into hosteling, think twice before you decide this gem isn’t for you! (and I don’t use exclamation marks lightly). The Oasis Hostel Toledo was simple but perfect. The central location is fabulous, and our room was comfortable, beautifully presented and had two rather-romantic french doors looking out onto the sleepy street below.
Oh, and the best bit? This view from the roof terrace;
A private room with en-suite came in at just under €50 per night (for two guests) in April. The stunning views? Priceless.
Toledo is worth a day of any traveller’s time, with it’s wealth of history, charming streets, sleepy cafes and panoramic views. But to see the real Toledo, time your trip right. Soak up the morning sun as the city slowly comes to life. Sip a cold beer and nibble tapas outside a cafe as the sun sinks golden below the spires and rooftops of this ancient town. And step beyond the streets well-trodden to see signs of centuries of life in this atmospheric little place you’ll be glad you discovered.
Have you visited Toledo? What hidden gems did you stumble across?
The practical bit
Our bed for the night was at the beautiful Oasis Hostal Toledo, one of the most recommendable hostels I’ve ever had the pleasure of staying in.
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