Madrid might just be my favourite city to eat in.
There are plenty of other reasons to visit the Spanish capital, and there are plenty of other cities reknown for great food, but there’s something about this place I just love.
It’s informal, it’s fun and it’s delicious.
Eating in Madrid is all about enjoying food with friends, embracing Spanish classics and sampling some of the best quality produce you’ll find anywhere in in Spain. When we spend a few days in this beautiful city last spring, we couldn’t help but stumble across fabulous food wherever we went.
Here’s my guide to off-piste eating in Madrid, one tapas at a time.
But first, coffee.
Madrid’s old fashioned cafeterias. There are are many wonderful breakfast treats to be enjoyed in Spain, from sharp freshness of pan con tomate to pillow-like tortilla. But the most indulgent of all is a plate of steaming hot churros straight from the the fryer, accompanied by a cup of thick, dark chocolate and a sweet cafe con leche. These crisp little fingers of dough, liberally sprinkled with sugar, taste divine and – for me – will forever taste of Spain.
You can enjoy churros from stands all round the city but nothing beats the authentic way, sat at the bar of a cafeteria on a chromed stool watching the ebb and flow of regulars popping by for their morning coffee. These little cafes can be found all across the city, and whilst they might not always be glamorous they’re about as real as it gets.
La Bicicleta. Don’t be put off if you’re not on two wheels, and the names on the wall don’t mean anything to you. This charming cafe may just be the answer to every cycling fan’s dreams, but it’s also home to the best coffee I tasted in Madrid. Pitching itself as a cafe/workspace/bar it’s actually a cosy bar and lounge with a menu that leaves the mind boggling (Lance Armstrong sandwich anyone?).
We popped in for morning coffee a few times – it’s a wonderful place to idly sit in the front window and watch the world go by in the little square outside – and on an evening for beers. Whether you happen to be a pro-cycling enthusiast (less likely) or just a lover of coffee (more likely), I’d rate La Bicicletta as one of my favourite stops in Madrid.
La Bicicleta, Plaza de San Ildefonso, 9, 28004, Madrid
Best for authentic Spanish groceries
Mercado San Anton. If you want to sample Spanish delicacies and pick up some of the highest-quality produce you can find in Madrid, you’ll love San Anton. Spread across several floors with a central atrium, the building alone is a good reason to visit. You’ll find delicatessens on the first floor, regional tapas from around Spain on the second and a rooftop restaurant on the third. We stopped here for tapas and a drink, and wished we had a kitchen to enjoy more of the mouthwatering cured meats, cheeses and rainbow-coloured vegetables on display.
Mercado San Anton, Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 24B, 28004 Madrid
Mercado de la Paz. Situated in the upmarket district of Salamanca, la Paz is a taste of authentic Spanish market life. It’s packed with stalls selling every imaginable grocery as well as great value cafes and bars. It’s not instagram-worthy and it’s not tourist-friendly (we had to practice our best Spanish here) but it is a wonderful slice of real-life, real food. Towards the back you’ll find a little cafe specialising in empañadas. Now I’m not entirely sure what was in mine, but they tasted heavenly – so if you find yourself nearby and hungry, it’s well worth stopping by.
Mercado de la Paz, Calle de Ayala, 28, 28001 Madrid
Best for tapas
Mercado de San Miguel. Just a few moments walk from Plaza Mayor, you’ll find this beautiful building. Recently restored, the brick archways are packed with high-end food stalls, stylish tapas bars and seductive cafes and patisseries. Yes, it attracts much of the tourist crowd, but don’t let this put you off as it’s still a delight for the senses. Head here early in the morning or later in the day to miss the crowds and sample some of the diverse tapas on offer.
Mercado de San Miguel, near Plaza Mayor, 28005, Madrid
Mercado de San Ildefonso. Our absolute favourite. Less traditional, more street food market slash entertainment space. Once you’re up the stairs, the market opens out into large entertainment space, with little tapas stalls forming a perimeter around the central area packed with tables.
It’s best on an evening when you can enjoy a beer or two, take your time to try different tapas cooked fresh in front of you and take in the atmosphere and entertainment. When we visited, we were delighted/amused/confused (in equal measure) by a stand-up comedy night taking place in the central space whilst we devoured endless plates of jamon, brochettes and more.
Mercado de San Ildefonso, Calle de Fuencarral, 57, 28004, Madrid
Calle Baja, La Latina. When we weren’t eating our way through the delights of Madrid’s markets, you could find us on Cala Baja in La Latina district. This area has a reputation for being the one of the best spots for tapas in Madrid and we couldn’t begin to find a reason to disagree.
The busy street is packed full of bars, ranging from the slightly touristy to the very local. We found some great little places – the sort with nowhere to sit down and packed with locals – and we’d happily go back to time and time again. Pick the right place and the beers are cold, your tapas is free (and delicious), and the atmosphere lively.
Calle Baja, 28005, Madrid
We didn’t head to Madrid with the intention of making our trip an edible adventure – but it’s hard not to when there are incredible places to eat and mouthwatering displays of produce around every corner. The real joy of the Spanish capital is breaking free from restaurants where we might otherwise have eaten and seeking busy little bars, old-fashioned cafes and cavernous markets. It’s a little bit exciting, a lot of fun and whole lot of delicious.
Where are your favourite places to eat off the beaten path?
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With special thanks for my ever-patient travelling partner and other half @benrunsuk for sharing some of the photos above.